1.1 Rinse

• Rinse the surface with fresh water to remove loose dirt or any detachment. You can also scrub it with a hard sponge.
  
  

1.2 Degrease

• Degrease the surface with a specialized cleaning product.
  
  

1.3 Rinse again

• When using a water soluble cleaning product, rinse the surface with plenty of fresh water. However, it’s important to avoid using too much water on bare cast iron as it is porous and can 'soak' into the metal leading to corrosion when your boat is in use.
  
  
• Allow the surface to dry.

2.1 Sand

• Sand well using an abrasive disc (24-36 grit) to achieve a heavily scored surface profile.
  
  

2.2 Remove particles

• Remove any sanding residue with clean compressed air, sweep the surface with a clean brush, or vacuum clean for best results.
  
  

2.3 Application

• The first coat of primer on bare steel should be applied within 4 hours after you’ve finished the sanding (or blasting).

Priming is a vital part of the painting process as it’s the base on which the rest of the system will be applied. If the base isn’t good and sound, then the overall system won’t be either.

Important note relating to filling and fairing: If you are intending to carry out any filling and/or fairing work please read the following note very carefully.
On all bare substrates a coat of primer MUST be applied before proceeding with any filling and/or fairing. Once this work has been completed then the second and subsequent coats of primer should be applied before proceeding with application of the rest of the chosen above or below waterline system.

3.1 Mask off

• Mask off any areas that are not going to be painted such as the waterline with suitable masking tape.
  
  

3.2 Mixing

• Single pack products:
  • With single pack primer mix the paint thoroughly with a stirring stick ensuring that any settlement is well mixed in.
    
    
  
  
  
• Two pack products:
  • If you are using a 2 pack primer, mix the individual components thoroughly.
    
    
  • Combine the two products and mix the paint thoroughly as indicated on the datasheet or the label on the can.
    
    
  
  
  
• In some instances, it's necessary to add solvents such as to aid application or improve penetration of the first coat on wood. For the recommended solvent and the amount you need to add, please refer to the datasheet or the label on the can.
  
  

3.3 Application

• Pour the paint into a clean roller tray or paint pot.
  
  
• Start somewhere where any application overlap will be less noticeable such as on the bow or the corner of the transom.
  
  
• For large surfaces, it's advised to use a roller as it's quicker and will achieve a uniform finish.
  
  
• If you’re applying product with a brush, a good technique is the criss-cross method.
  
  
• Paint is applied to the surface with diagonal brushing from left to right. It’s then spread further with horizontal strokes before finally laying off with light vertical strokes. This applies a uniform layer of paint and allows the brush marks to flow out better.
  
  
• Apply sufficient paint for the product to flow, but not so much to make it sag or run as it can be hard to remove them later. If you do see any sags or runs, brush them out as soon as possible.
  
  

3.4 Overcoating

• Most products will require more than one application or coat as per datasheet or label on the can.
  
  
• If any filling is required this should be done after the first coat of primer is applied.
  
  
• If additional coats are required, follow the recommended overcoating times as per the datasheet or label on the can.
  
  
• Most primers have extended recoat times, so you can apply the required number of coats without having to sand in-between. If you exceed the maximum overcoating time, you will need to sand the surface with 120-180 before applying the next coat.
  
  
• Product performance is based upon the film thickness, so please make sure the recommended number of coats are applied.
  
  

3.5 Final sanding

• Once all the primer coats have been applied and cured, sand the entire surface using 180 - 240 grit paper. Make sure you don’t expose any substrate. If you do, you’ll need to re-prime those areas and feather the edges back in once it’s cured to avoid the edge of the patch showing through to the final finish.
  
  

3.6 Clean surface

• Dust down with a lint-free cloth or suitable tack rag.
  
  
• If there is any risk that the surface has been contaminated with oil or grease (e.g. fingerprints), wipe with a suitable thinner prior to applying the undercoat.

Undercoating requires more care and attention than priming as the aim is to apply an even overall coat with the smoothest possible finish so that when sanded back, you don’t sand through to the primer.

4.1 Mixing

• Single pack products:
  • With single pack undercoats mix the paint thoroughly with a stirring stick ensuring that any settlement is well mixed in.
    
    
  
  
  
• Two pack products:
  • If you are using a 2 pack undercoat, mix the individual components thoroughly.
    
    
  • Combine the two products and mix the paint thoroughly as indicated on the datasheet or the label on the can.
    
    
  
  
  
• In some instances, it's necessary to add solvents such as to aid application or improve penetration of the first coat on wood. For the recommended solvent and the amount you need to add, please refer to the datasheet or the label on the can.
  
  

4.2 Application

• Pour the paint into a clean roller tray or paint pot. Two pack products have a limited pot life when mixed. Refer to label or technical data sheet for further information.
  
  
• Start somewhere where any application overlap will be less noticeable such as on the bow or the corner of the transom.
  
  
• For large surfaces, it's advised to use a roller as it's quicker and will achieve a uniform finish.
  
  
• If you’re applying product with a brush, a good technique is the criss-cross method.
  
  
• Paint is applied to the surface with diagonal brushing from left to right. It’s then spread further with horizontal strokes before finally laying off with light vertical strokes. This applies a uniform layer of paint and allows the brush marks to flow out better.
  
  
• Apply sufficient paint for the product to flow, but not so much to make it sag or run as it can be hard to remove them later. If you do see any sags or runs, brush them out as soon as possible.
  
  

4.3 Overcoating

• If you are applying more than 1 coat apply the subsequent coats in a similar fashion. If you’re applying another coat after the ‘recoat without sanding’ time (as per the data sheet or label instructions), sand the whole surface using 280 grit paper and dust down with a lint-free cloth or suitable tack rag.
  
  

4.4 Final sanding

• Once all the undercoats have been applied and cured, sand the entire surface using 320 - 400 grit paper. Make sure you don’t expose any primer. If you do, you’ll need to re-undercoat those areas and feather the edges back in once it’s cured to avoid the edge of the patch showing through to the final finish.
  
  
• The finish you obtain on this section will mirror exactly what you will see with the finish coat. Using a suitable Sanding Guide Coat will help you see where you have and haven’t sanded.
  
  

4.5 Clean surface

• Dust down with a lint-free cloth or suitable tack rag.
  
  
• If there is any risk that the surface has been contaminated with oil or grease (e.g. fingerprints), wipe with a suitable thinner prior to applying the topcoat.

5.1 Mask off

• Mask off any areas that are not going to be painted such as fittings and the waterline with suitable masking tape.
  
  

5.2 Mixing

• Single pack products:
  • With single pack topcoats, mix the paint thoroughly with a stirring stick ensuring that any settlement is well mixed in.
    
    
  
  
  
• Two pack products:
  • If you are using a 2 pack topcoat, mix the individual components thoroughly.
    
    
  • Combine the two products and mix the paint thoroughly as indicated on the datasheet or the label on the can. Two pack products have a limited pot life when mixed. Refer to label or technical data sheet for further information.
    
    
  
  
  
• It is usually necessary to add solvents to aid application or improve flow. For the recommended solvent and the amount you need to add, please refer to the datasheet or the label on the can.
  
  

5.3 Wipe down

• Wipe the surface with a tack rag to remove all final traces of dust.
  
  

5.4 Application

• Pour the paint into a clean roller tray or paint pot.
  
  
• Start somewhere where any application overlap will be less noticeable such as on the bow or the corner of the transom.
  
  
• Taking one or two square metres at a time, paint the masked off edges or difficult areas with a small brush first.
  
  
• The best method for applying topcoat to a larger area is by using a roller to apply it to the surface, and use a brush at a 45 degree angle to smooth out the wet paint (this called the roll and tip method).
  
  
• If you’re applying product with a brush, a good technique is the criss-cross method.
  
  
• Paint is applied to the surface with diagonal brushing from left to right. It’s then spread further with horizontal strokes before finally laying off with light vertical strokes. This applies a uniform layer of paint and allows the brush marks to flow out better.
  
  
• Apply sufficient paint for the product to flow, but not so much to make it sag or run as it can be hard to remove them later. If you do see any sags or runs, brush them out as soon as possible.
  
  

5.5 Overcoating

• If any of the coats you apply develops runs or sags, or has contamination in it that needs to be sanded out, use 320 grit.
  
  
• You can apply the next coat within the recommended overcoating time.
  
  
• For the best aesthetic results, we recommend a light sand between coats.
  
  
• If you exceed the maximum overcoating time, you must sand the surface with 320-400 before applying the next coat.
  
  
• If the surface has been sanded, wipe with a tack rag before applying the next coat.
  
  

5.6 Finishing up

• To clean equipment, use the recommended solvent from the datasheet or the label on the can.
  
  
• For waste disposal please refer to the top of this guide.
  
  
• After the final coat, remove any masking tape whilst the paint is still wet. This will give you a clean painted edge.
  
  

Important:

• It is possible that the repaired area may show a colour difference when compared to the original finish* To minimise colour differences, try and carry the repainted area out to defined panel edges or join lines; for example if you have repaired a transom then you could repaint the whole transom. If you are repairing a hatch repaint the whole hatch.
  
  
• If you have made a patch repair on one side of a hull only, then you might be faced with repainting all of that hull side as there are unlikely to be any suitable edges.
  
  
• It is not recommended that DIY painters attempt to cut and polish the edges of a repaired area. Doing so would lead to irreversible damage to the finish resulting in premature loss of gloss and possibly a greater colour change over-time. Products that are capable of being cut and polished are generally for professional use only.