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How to fully repaint a 1 pack finish paint on aluminium / zinc galvanised steel
Paint Guide AW059
- I am going to work on a surface above the waterline change
- I want to paint my boat change
- I want to do a full paint or repaint change
- I am going to paint my hull / cabin / trims change
- The part I want to paint is aluminium / zinc-galvanised steel change
- The surface is painted change
- The surface is showing no defects change
Paint job at a glance
Here's your custom paint guide
Here's your custom paint guide
Before any project, take these things into account to get the best results:
- Factor in enough time for each stage of your project so you don't have to rush.
- Always check the weather while planning your project. Temperature, humidity and dew point affect the quality of your work.
- Check you have all the equipment, tools and products you need.
- Ensure you read all the information in the health and safety tab above.
Products we recommend for this guide
Single pack system
Equipment we recommend for this guide
Equipment List 1
Equipment List 2
Equipment List 3
- Bucket
- High pressure washer
- Extension for cleaning tool
- Sponge and/or cloths
- Sanding paper 280 - 400 grit (various grades for surface preparation)
- Vacuum cleaner (or compressed air)
- Cleaning thinner
- Rubber gloves
Equipment List 2
- Dust mask
- Sanding paper 280 - 400 grit (various grades for undercoat application)
- Sanding paper 320 - 400 grit (various grades for topcoat application)
- Paint roller tray
- Paint rollers (suitable sizes and types)
- Paint brushes (suitable size)
- Tack rag or lint free cloth
- Safety shoes
Equipment List 3
- Face dust masks
- Hand protection (as per product SDS)
- Overalls
- Sanding machine and/or suitable sanding blocks
- Eye protection
- Specialized cleaning product
Your health and safety
Your safety is of the utmost importance to us. Ensure that you read and follow all label instructions and the safety datasheet before starting your project. Also:
Ensure the area you are working in is properly ventilated.
Ensure all products are kept out of reach of children during storage and usage.
Ensure solvent fumes and any splashing of material will not affect others nearby.
PPE (Personal Protective Equipment)
Before you begin, always refer to the label and safety datasheet for product specific information. Using the right PPE for your project is important to ensure your safety. You should always check the information from the PPE manufacturer to ensure you use the correct items for your working conditions.
Wear safety glasses at all times to protect your eyes from splashes.
Chemicals can cause skin irritation. Wear overalls and protective gloves to protect your skin and clothing.
To avoid inhalation of dust while sanding; wear a dust mask at all times.
Many products contain either solvents or other chemicals that can build up in confined areas creating a hazard and/or an unpleasant working environment. Wear suitable respiratory protection if ventilation is not sufficient or if required by the safety datasheet to do so.
See the protective equipment overview for further information.
We care deeply about the environment and we want to ensure that our products are disposed of in the correct way. With that in mind, please:
- Always refer to the product label and safety datasheet for any specific instructions.
- Ensure any waste product including cans, rags, brushes, roller sleeves masking tape and paper, gloves and overalls are disposed of according to local regulations.
- Do not allow any waste material such as unused paint to enter any waterways.
- Ensure waste and empty containers are disposed of in accordance with local legislation guidelines and national regulations.
For more information or any special waste regulations, please contact your local waste regulation authority.
Step 1 Cleaning painted aluminium / zinc-galvanized steel
1.1 Rinse
- Rinse with fresh water to remove loose dirt or any detachment on the surface.
1.2 Degrease
- Degrease the surface with a specialized cleaning product. Use a soft sponge to work the product onto the surface.
1.3 Rinse again
- Rinse the surface well with plenty of fresh water to remove the cleaning product including the solvent impurity.
- Allow the surface to dry.
Show tips from pros
- To tell if the surface is properly degreased, the water should spread across the surface while flushing. Small droplets of water are an indicator that the surface isn’t fully degreased. If so, repeat the cleaning process.
- Only use appropriate products for cleaning.
Show equipment you'll need
- Bucket
- High pressure washer
- Extension for cleaning tool
- Sponge and/or cloths
- Rubber gloves
- Safety shoes
- Overalls
- Eye protection
- Specialized cleaning product
Step 2 Sanding paint in good condition on aluminium / zinc-galvanized steel
2.1 Remove paint by sanding
- Sand the existing finish with 280 grit.
- If the current paint is a 1 pack product, or unknown, and you want to apply a 2 pack product, you should remove everything down to bare substrate to avoid incompatibility.
2.2 Final sanding
- Final sand with 320 - 400 grit.
2.3 Remove particles
- Remove sanding residues with clean compressed air, sweep with a clean brush, vacuum clean or rinse with fresh water.
2.4 Clean surface
- Wipe the surface with a suitable solvent immediately before painting to remove any final particles. It’s important that the solvent has fully evaporated before you apply any paint. You can also use a tack rag.
Show tips from pros
- To avoid sanding marks showing through the final paint film, start with a coarser paper and then change to a finer grade. Don’t jump more than 100 grades in one go. This is especially important when painting darker colours, as the sanding marks will show through more easily.
- Be careful not to sand over sealants around windows or fittings as the sealant can contaminate the surface. Cover these areas with masking tape before sanding.
- For large and flat areas, we recommend you use an orbital sanding machine in combination with a vacuum cleaner. For radius and edges just sand by hand. And remember, the sandpaper should be tightly fitted around an interface pad or soft foam. This avoids sanding through the paint layer.
Show equipment you'll need
- Sanding paper 280 - 400 grit (various grades for surface preparation)
- Vacuum cleaner (or compressed air)
- Cleaning thinner
- Rubber gloves
- Dust mask
- Tack rag or lint free cloth
- Overalls
- Sanding machine and/or suitable sanding blocks
- Eye protection
Step 3 Applying undercoats
Undercoating requires more care and attention than priming as the aim is to apply an even overall coat with the smoothest possible finish so that when sanded back, you don’t sand through to the primer.
3.1 Mixing
- Single pack products:
- With single pack undercoats mix the paint thoroughly with a stirring stick ensuring that any settlement is well mixed in.
- With single pack undercoats mix the paint thoroughly with a stirring stick ensuring that any settlement is well mixed in.
- Two pack products:
- If you are using a 2 pack undercoat, mix the individual components thoroughly.
- Combine the two products and mix the paint thoroughly as indicated on the datasheet or the label on the can.
- If you are using a 2 pack undercoat, mix the individual components thoroughly.
- In some instances, it's necessary to add solvents such as to aid application or improve penetration of the first coat on wood. For the recommended solvent and the amount you need to add, please refer to the datasheet or the label on the can.
3.2 Application
- Pour the paint into a clean roller tray or paint pot. Two pack products have a limited pot life when mixed. Refer to label or technical data sheet for further information.
- Start somewhere where any application overlap will be less noticeable such as on the bow or the corner of the transom.
- For large surfaces, it's advised to use a roller as it's quicker and will achieve a uniform finish.
- If you’re applying product with a brush, a good technique is the criss-cross method.
- Paint is applied to the surface with diagonal brushing from left to right. It’s then spread further with horizontal strokes before finally laying off with light vertical strokes. This applies a uniform layer of paint and allows the brush marks to flow out better.
- Apply sufficient paint for the product to flow, but not so much to make it sag or run as it can be hard to remove them later. If you do see any sags or runs, brush them out as soon as possible.
3.3 Overcoating
- If you are applying more than 1 coat apply the subsequent coats in a similar fashion. If you’re applying another coat after the ‘recoat without sanding’ time (as per the data sheet or label instructions), sand the whole surface using 280 grit paper and dust down with a lint-free cloth or suitable tack rag.
3.4 Final sanding
- Once all the undercoats have been applied and cured, sand the entire surface using 320 - 400 grit paper. Make sure you don’t expose any primer. If you do, you’ll need to re-undercoat those areas and feather the edges back in once it’s cured to avoid the edge of the patch showing through to the final finish.
- The finish you obtain on this section will mirror exactly what you will see with the finish coat. Using a suitable Sanding Guide Coat will help you see where you have and haven’t sanded.
3.5 Clean surface
- Dust down with a lint-free cloth or suitable tack rag.
- If there is any risk that the surface has been contaminated with oil or grease (e.g. fingerprints), wipe with a suitable thinner prior to applying the topcoat.
Show tips from pros
Working with a roller:
- Applying paint with a roller is a fast method of covering large areas.
- For best results, use a high density, closed cell foam roller.
- Some rollers may be affected by solvents in the product and can swell during use. When they become too soft to use, or look like they are breaking up, replace them with a new one.
- When using a roller and tray, it’s a good idea to keep the tray covered loosely to avoid the wind, sun or air creating a skin over the paint during use.
- If the area to be painted is very small you can obtain smaller rollers from various hardware stores. Some are often called radiator rollers that are very good for small and difficult to get to areas.
Working with a brush:
- Brushes should be medium to large width typically 75-150mm with long flexible bristles.
- A smaller brush will be used for painting difficult to reach areas.
- Wash your brushes with the appropriate solvent and dry them thoroughly before using to avoid contamination.
- The quality of brushes required for undercoating should be the same as you will use for topcoating. Both natural bristle and synthetic brushes can be used.
- To minimise brush marks hold the brush at a 45 degree angle to the surface.
- To clean brushes, place some thinner inside a suitable container so you can clean it if the bristles start to clog due to curing or thickening of the paint.
Other useful tips:
- If you’re getting runs as the paint is applied, then it’s either too thin, or you’re applying too much.
- Avoid using paint directly from the can as this might introduce contamination and prematurely age the paint from solvent evaporation. Instead, pour what you’d expect to use in 30 minutes into a separate container.
- Old jam jars or clean dry tin cans are useful for mixing paint. Also, metal measuring spoons of various sizes you can buy from any supermarket, are ideal for measuring small quantities of paint and hardener for the smaller jobs.
- If any of the applied coats develops runs or sags (or has contamination in it) that you need to sand out, use 120-220 grit paper. Start with 220 grade and if it keeps clogging change to 120. Any coarser and you run the risk of removing too much product and/or sanding through to the substrate.
Show equipment you'll need
- Sanding paper 280 - 400 grit (various grades for undercoat application)
- Paint roller tray
- Paint rollers (suitable sizes and types)
- Paint brushes (suitable size)
- Tack rag or lint free cloth
- Safety shoes
- Face dust masks
- Hand protection (as per product SDS)
- Overalls
- Sanding machine and/or suitable sanding blocks
- Eye protection
Step 4 Applying topcoat finishes
4.1 Mask off
- Mask off any areas that are not going to be painted such as fittings and the waterline with suitable masking tape.
4.2 Mixing
- Single pack products:
- With single pack topcoats, mix the paint thoroughly with a stirring stick ensuring that any settlement is well mixed in.
- With single pack topcoats, mix the paint thoroughly with a stirring stick ensuring that any settlement is well mixed in.
- Two pack products:
- If you are using a 2 pack topcoat, mix the individual components thoroughly.
- Combine the two products and mix the paint thoroughly as indicated on the datasheet or the label on the can. Two pack products have a limited pot life when mixed. Refer to label or technical data sheet for further information.
- If you are using a 2 pack topcoat, mix the individual components thoroughly.
- It is usually necessary to add solvents to aid application or improve flow. For the recommended solvent and the amount you need to add, please refer to the datasheet or the label on the can.
4.3 Wipe down
- Wipe the surface with a tack rag to remove all final traces of dust.
4.4 Application
- Pour the paint into a clean roller tray or paint pot.
- Start somewhere where any application overlap will be less noticeable such as on the bow or the corner of the transom.
- Taking one or two square metres at a time, paint the masked off edges or difficult areas with a small brush first.
- The best method for applying topcoat to a larger area is by using a roller to apply it to the surface, and use a brush at a 45 degree angle to smooth out the wet paint (this called the roll and tip method).
- If you’re applying product with a brush, a good technique is the criss-cross method.
- Paint is applied to the surface with diagonal brushing from left to right. It’s then spread further with horizontal strokes before finally laying off with light vertical strokes. This applies a uniform layer of paint and allows the brush marks to flow out better.
- Apply sufficient paint for the product to flow, but not so much to make it sag or run as it can be hard to remove them later. If you do see any sags or runs, brush them out as soon as possible.
4.5 Overcoating
- If any of the coats you apply develops runs or sags, or has contamination in it that needs to be sanded out, use 320 grit.
- You can apply the next coat within the recommended overcoating time.
- For the best aesthetic results, we recommend a light sand between coats.
- If you exceed the maximum overcoating time, you must sand the surface with 320-400 before applying the next coat.
- If the surface has been sanded, wipe with a tack rag before applying the next coat.
4.6 Finishing up
- To clean equipment, use the recommended solvent from the datasheet or the label on the can.
- For waste disposal please refer to the top of this guide.
- After the final coat, remove any masking tape whilst the paint is still wet. This will give you a clean painted edge.
Important:
- It is possible that the repaired area may show a colour difference when compared to the original finish* To minimise colour differences, try and carry the repainted area out to defined panel edges or join lines; for example if you have repaired a transom then you could repaint the whole transom. If you are repairing a hatch repaint the whole hatch.
- If you have made a patch repair on one side of a hull only, then you might be faced with repainting all of that hull side as there are unlikely to be any suitable edges.
- It is not recommended that DIY painters attempt to cut and polish the edges of a repaired area. Doing so would lead to irreversible damage to the finish resulting in premature loss of gloss and possibly a greater colour change over-time. Products that are capable of being cut and polished are generally for professional use only.
Show tips from pros
Working with a roller:
- Applying paint with a roller is a fast method of covering large areas
- Rollers should be high density closed cell foam types to minimise formation of bubbles that can occur with mohair or large cell foam rollers.
- If rollering with felt or mohair rollers, wrap masking tape around a new roller and then pull off to remove any loose fibres.
- Some rollers may be affected by solvents in the product and can swell during use. When they become too soft to use, or look like they are breaking up, replace them with a new one.
- When using a roller and tray it is a good idea to keep the tray covered loosely to avoid the wind, sun or air creating a skin over the paint during use.
Working with a brush:
- Brushes should be medium to large width typically 75 – 150mm with long flexible bristles.
- A smaller 50mm brush will be used for painting around windows or any other fiddly detail.
- Wash your brushes with the thinner and dry them thoroughly before using to avoid contamination.
- When applying by brush, clean or change brushes after 20 minutes to avoid overloading with paint.
- Use a worn brush if possible for the final coat to ensure less brush marks.
- When tipping-off with a brush, put some thinner inside a container to clean the tipping brush should the bristles start to clog due to curing or thickened paint.
Other useful tips:
- If it is particularly hot or cold weather conditions, you can add a small amount of suitable thinner (no more than 10%) to help ease the application.
- If you’re getting runs as the paint is applied then it’s either too thin or you’re applying too much. If you’re seeing runs/sagging that occurs after 5-10 minutes, the paint is too thick and needs to be carefully thinned.
- Always use lint-free cloths/ tack rags.
- Never paint wearing wool clothing as the fibres can find their way into your work.
- Avoid using paint direct from the can as this may introduce contamination and prematurely age the paint from solvent evaporation. Pour the amount you expect to use in 30 minutes into a separate container.
- You may find some old jam jars or clean dry tin cans are useful for mixing paint. Also metal measuring spoons of various sizes from the supermarket are ideal for measuring small quantities of paint and hardener for the smaller jobs.
- Normally 2 - 3 coats of finish coat will be needed. After the first coat, assess how much product you used to help you work out how much you'll need to complete the job. Refer to label data for self-on-self re-coating times.
- Finishes can be applied using a brush and/or roller. stir and leave the mixed paint for around 10 minutes to allow bubbles to disperse.
- On a hull, it’s best to have two people working side-by-side. One applying vertically by roller and the second following along tipping off vertically with a brush whilst the paint is still wet enough to retain its wet edge.
Show equipment you'll need
- Sanding paper 320 - 400 grit (various grades for topcoat application)
- Paint roller tray
- Paint rollers (suitable sizes and types)
- Paint brushes (suitable size)
- Tack rag or lint free cloth
- Safety shoes
- Face dust masks
- Hand protection (as per product SDS)
- Overalls
- Sanding machine and/or suitable sanding blocks
- Eye protection
We're here to help
We're ready to help. Our friendly help desk is open weekdays 8:00 - 16:30
Call 01489 775062
Send an e-mail to iyp.uk@akzonobel.com
Whether you call or e-mail, please mention your paint guide reference: AW059
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