• Always sand along the grain as sanding across it can cause scratches that will show through in the final finish.
  
  
• To avoid sanding marks showing through the final paint film, start with a coarser paper and then change to a finer grade. Don’t jump more than 100 grades in one go. This is especially important when painting darker colours, as the sanding marks will show through more easily.
  
  
• Be careful that you don’t sand over sealants around the windows or fittings as the sealant can contaminate the surface. Cover these areas with masking tape before sanding.

• Rubber gloves
  
  
• Dust mask
  
  
• Sanding paper 80 - 180 grit (various grades for surface preparation)
  
  
• Overalls
  
  
• Sanding machine and/or suitable sanding blocks
  
  
• Eye protection

• Oily or acid containing woods such as Teak / Iroko or Oak must be properly degreased.
  
  
• The first layer of paint must be quickly applied after the degreasing process, before the wood's natural oil returns to the surface.
  
  
• When degreasing with solvent, work with the 2-cloth method: use one cloth soaked with solvent and then wipe straight after with a clean cloth to remove the contamination.
  
  
• Use a fast evaporating solvent so it doesn’t remain in the grain.
  
  
• Change the cloths regularly to avoid spreading the dirt back to the surface.

• Extension for cleaning tool
  
  
• Sponge and/or cloths
  
  
• Vacuum cleaner (or compressed air)
  
  
• Rubber gloves
  
  
• Tack rag or lint free cloth
  
  
• Safety shoes
  
  
• Overalls
  
  
• Eye protection
  
  
• Specialized cleaning product

Working with a roller:

• Applying paint with a roller is a fast method of covering large/flat areas
  
  
• Rollers should be high density closed cell foam types to minimise formation of bubbles that can occur with mohair or large cell foam rollers.
  
  
• If rollering with felt or mohair rollers, wrap masking tape around a new roller and then pull off to remove any loose fibres.
  
  
• Some rollers may be affected by solvents in the product and can swell during use. When they become too soft to use, or look like they are breaking up, replace them with a new one.
  
  

Working with a brush:

• The best brushes to use are well worn ones that have good tapers to their bristles and are soft and clean. If you don’t have any then use the softest tapered bristle brushes you can find.
  
  
• You’ll need a range of brush sizes from typically 15mm up to 100mm. The smaller ones are perfect for cutting in around windows and on smaller fiddly pieces.
  
  
• Wash your brushes with the thinner and dry them thoroughly before using to avoid contamination.
  
  

Other useful tips:

• One important rule to remember is: try not to varnish in direct sunlight.
  
  
• Do not leave bare wood exposed for too long as it may absorb moisture from the atmosphere
  
  
• If you miss an area, leave the varnish to dry and sand this particular area so it’s smooth around the edges. Then varnish the whole surface as normal.
  
  
• Make sure you apply thinner rather than thicker layers of varnish as these will cure and sand better. Thick films can take much longer to dry especially in colder weather.
  
  
• Never rely on heavy application of product to disguise any defects. As the varnish cures and shrinks slightly, they may re-appear through the final coats.
  
  
• Wear dust and lint-free clothes, not wool clothing or similar. These will contaminate the varnish with fibres and dust.
  
  
• To check if there is any dust on the surface run your fingers over it very lightly. If you feel any, either use your fingers to wipe it off, or use a clean dry lint free cloth or a suitable tack rag. Ensure your hand is not greasy when doing this by washing your hand in warm soapy water and drying thoroughly.
  
  
• If varnishing outside in an exposed situation, apply when the air temperature is decreasing rather than increasing. If you apply as the temperature is increasing, air in the fibers can expand and create air bubbles in the varnish surface. These can form when it’s too late to remove them with laying-off using a brush. Overall, varnish is absorbed better in decreasing temperatures as the timber provides improved sealing.
  
  
• When applying varnish and especially a 2 pack type, work the brush back into the wet product you’ve just applied. Work methodically by varnishing all areas including the edges as you progress so all areas you’ve coated have a good wet edge. As you apply the varnish, solvent will evaporate and the varnish applied will start to become sticky. For a few minutes you can lap new work into the old, but don’t be tempted to go back over an area once it has started to set.
  
  
• Sanding between coats will remove product so remember to apply extra coats to allow for this.
  
  

• Paint roller tray
  
  
• Paint rollers (suitable sizes and types)
  
  
• Paint brushes (suitable size)
  
  
• Tack rag or lint free cloth
  
  
• Sanding paper 220 - 600 grit (various grades for varnish application)
  
  
• Safety shoes
  
  
• Face dust masks
  
  
• Hand protection (as per product SDS)
  
  
• Overalls
  
  
• Sanding machine and/or suitable sanding blocks
  
  
• Eye protection